Valletta

Valletta (/vəˈlɛtə/, Maltese: il-Belt Valletta, Maltese pronunciation: [vɐˈlːɛtːɐ]) is the capital city of Malta. Located in the South Eastern Region of the main island, between Marsamxett Harbour to the west and the Grand Harbour to the east, its population in 2014 was 6,444,[4] while the metropolitan area around it has a population of 393,938.[3] Valletta is second only to Nicosia as the southernmost capital of Europe,[5] and at just 0.61 square kilometres (61 ha), it is the European Union's smallest capital city.[6][7]

This article is about the Maltese capital. For other uses, see Valletta (disambiguation).

Valletta

Il-Belt Valletta
Capital city and local council
Flag
Coat of arms
Nickname(s): 
Il-Belt
Motto(s): 
City Built By Gentlemen For Gentlemen
Map of the Maltese Archipelago with Valletta highlighted in red
Coordinates: 35°53′54″N 14°30′45″E[1]
CountryMalta
RegionSouth Eastern Region
DistrictSouth Harbour District
Established28 March 1566
Capital city18 March 1571
Founded byJean de Parisot Valette
BordersFloriana
Government
 • MayorAlfred Zammit (PL)
Area
 • Capital city and local council0.61 km2 (0.24 sq mi)
Elevation
56 m (184 ft)
Population
 (Jan. 2019)
 • Capital city and local council5,827
 • Density9,600/km2 (25,000/sq mi)
 • Urban
355,000[2]
 • Metro
393,938[3]
 Highest Record Population (1875): 25,275
Demonym(s)Belti (m), Beltija (f), Beltin (pl) or Vallettan (m), Vallettana (f), Vallettani (pl)
Time zoneUTC+1 (CET)
 • Summer (DST)UTC+2 (CEST)
Postal code
VLT
Dialing code356
ISO 3166 codeMT-60
Patron saintsSt. Dominic
Our Lady of Mount Carmel
St. Paul
St. Augustine
Day of festa3 August
10 February
WebsiteOfficial website
CriteriaCultural: i, vi
Reference131
Inscription1980 (4th session)
Area55.5 ha

Valletta's 16th-century buildings were constructed by the Knights Hospitaller. The city was named after Jean Parisot de Valette, who succeeded in defending the island from an Ottoman invasion during the Great Siege of Malta. The city is Baroque in character, with elements of Mannerist, Neo-Classical and Modern architecture, though the Second World War left major scars on the city, particularly the destruction of the Royal Opera House. The city was officially recognised as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1980.[8]

The city is noted for its fortifications, consisting of bastions, curtains and cavaliers, along with the beauty of its Baroque palaces, gardens and churches.

History
See also: Mount Sciberras and Sciberras Peninsula
Former mural at Is-Suq tal-Belt illustrating the city's construction

The peninsula was previously called Xagħret Mewwija (Mu' awiya – Meuia; named during the Arab period[9])[10][11] or Ħal Newwija.[12] Mewwija refers to a sheltered place.[13] The extreme end of the peninsula was known as Xebb ir-Ras (Sheb point), of which name origins from the lighthouse on site.[14][15] A family which surely owned land became known as Sceberras, now a Maltese surname as Sciberras.[16] At one point the entire peninsula became known as Sceberras.[15] (See also)

Historical affiliations
Order of Saint John 1566–1798

French Republic 1798–1800
Protectorate of Malta 1800–1813
Crown Colony of Malta 1813–1964
State of Malta 1964–1974

Republic of Malta 1974–present

Order of Saint John
The Ottoman army bombs the Knights' Three Cities from the peninsula of Sciberras during the 1565 Great Siege
The nave of Saint John's Co-Cathedral
Grandmaster's Palace
Valletta and the Grand Harbour around 1801

The building of a city on the Sciberras Peninsula had been proposed by the Order of Saint John as early as 1524.[17] Back then, the only building on the peninsula was a small watchtower[18] dedicated to Erasmus of Formia (Saint Elmo), which had been built in 1488.[19]

In 1552, the Aragonite watchtower was demolished and the larger Fort Saint Elmo was built in its place.[20]

In the Great Siege of 1565, Fort Saint Elmo fell to the Ottomans, but the Order eventually won the siege with the help of Sicilian reinforcements. The victorious Grand Master, Jean de Valette, immediately set out to build a new fortified city on the Sciberras Peninsula to fortify the Order's position in Malta and bind the Knights to the island. The city took his name and was called La Valletta.[21]

The Grand Master asked the European kings and princes for help, and he received a lot of assistance, due to the increased fame of the Order after their victory in the Great Siege. Pope Pius V sent his military architect, Francesco Laparelli, to design the new city, while Philip II of Spain sent substantial monetary aid. The foundation stone of the city was laid by Grand Master de Valette on 28 March 1566. He placed the first stone in what later became Our Lady of Victories Church.[22]

In his book Dell’Istoria della Sacra Religione et Illustrissima Militia di San Giovanni Gierosolimitano (English: The History of the Sacred Religion and Illustrious Militia of St John of Jerusalem), written between 1594 and 1602, Giacomo Bosio writes that when the cornerstone of Valletta was placed, a group of Maltese elders said: "Iegi zimen en fel wardia col sceber raba iesue uquie" (Which in modern Maltese reads, "Jiġi żmien li fil-Wardija [l-Għolja Sciberras] kull xiber raba' jiswa uqija", and in English, "There will come a time when every piece of land on Sciberras Hill will be worth its weight in gold").[23]

De Valette died from a stroke on 21 August 1568 at age 74 and never saw the completion of his city. Originally interred in the church of Our Lady of the Victories, his remains now rest in St. John's Co-Cathedral among the tombs of other Grand Masters of the Knights of Malta.[22]

Francesco Laparelli was the city's principal designer and his plan departed from medieval Maltese architecture, which exhibited irregular winding streets and alleys. He designed the new city on a rectangular grid plan, and without any collacchio (an area restricted for important buildings). The streets were designed to be wide and straight, beginning centrally from the City Gate and ending at Fort Saint Elmo (which was rebuilt) overlooking the Mediterranean; certain bastions were built 47 metres (154 ft) tall. His assistant was the Maltese architect Girolamo Cassar, who later oversaw the construction of the city himself after Laparelli's death in 1570.[22]

The Ufficio delle Case regulated the building of the city as a planning authority.[24]

The city of Valletta was mostly complete by the early 1570s, and it became the capital on 18 March 1571 when Grand Master Pierre de Monte moved from his seat at Fort St Angelo in Birgu to the Grandmaster's Palace in Valletta.

Turner's depiction of the Grand Harbour, National Museum of Fine Arts

Seven Auberges were built for the Order's Langues, and these were complete by the 1580s.[25][26] An eighth Auberge, Auberge de Bavière, was later added in the 18th century.[27]

In Antoine de Paule's reign, it was decided to build more fortifications to protect Valletta, and these were named the Floriana Lines after the architect who designed them, Pietro Paolo Floriani of Macerata.[28] During António Manoel de Vilhena's reign, a town began to form between the walls of Valletta and the Floriana Lines, and this evolved from a suburb of Valletta to Floriana, a town in its own right.[29]

In 1634, a gunpowder factory explosion killed 22 people in Valletta.[30] In 1749, Muslim slaves plotted to kill Grandmaster Pinto and take over Valletta, but the revolt was suppressed before it even started due to their plans leaking out to the Order.[31] Later on in his reign, Pinto embellished the city with Baroque architecture, and many important buildings such as Auberge de Castille were remodeled or completely rebuilt in the new architectural style.[32]

In 1775, during the reign of Ximenes, an unsuccessful revolt known as the Rising of the Priests occurred in which Fort Saint Elmo and Saint James Cavalier were captured by rebels, but the revolt was eventually suppressed.[33]

French occupation and British rule
Early morning in 1967 on the notorious Strait Street known to generations of British Servicemen (especially to sailors on shore leave) as "The Gut". Bars and bordellos abounded, and brawls were common. But its popularity never waned.

In 1798, the French invaded the island and expelled the Order.[34] After the Maltese rebelled, French troops continued to occupy Valletta and the surrounding harbor area, until they capitulated to the British in September 1800. In the early 19th century, the British Civil Commissioner, Henry Pigot, agreed to demolish the majority of the city's fortifications.[35] The demolition was again proposed in the 1870s and 1880s, but it was never carried out and the fortifications have survived largely intact.[17]

Eventually building projects in Valletta resumed under British rule. These projects included widening gates, demolishing and rebuilding structures, widening newer houses over the years, and installing civic projects. The Malta Railway, which linked Valletta to Mdina, was officially opened in 1883.[36] It was closed down in 1931 after buses became a popular means of transport.

In 1939, Valletta was abandoned as the headquarters of the Royal Navy Mediterranean Fleet due to its proximity to Italy and the city became a flash point during the subsequent two-year long Siege of Malta.[37] German and Italian air raids throughout the Second World War caused much destruction in Valletta and the rest of the harbor area. The Royal Opera House, constructed at the city entrance in the 19th century, was one of the buildings lost to the raids.[20]

Contemporary

In 1980, the 24th Chess Olympiad took place in Valletta.[38]

The entire city of Valletta has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1980, along with Megalithic Temples of Malta and the Hypogeum of Ħal-Saflieni.[8][39] On 11 November 2015 Valletta hosted the Valletta Summit on Migration in which European and African leaders discussed the European migrant crisis.[40] After that, on 27 November 2015 the city also hosted part of the Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting 2015.[41]

Valletta was the European Capital of Culture in 2018.[42]

Government
Auberge de Castille at night
Renzo Piano's Parliament House

Local government

The Valletta Local Council was established by the Local Councils Act of 1993, along with the other local councils of Malta.[43] The first election was held on 20 November 1993. Other elections were held in 1996, 1999, 2002, 2005, 2008, 2013,[44] 2017.[45] The present local council was elected in 2019.[46] The local council is housed in a building in South Street.

The following people have served as Mayors of Valletta:[47]

National government

Valletta is the capital city of Malta,[51] and is the country's administrative and commercial hub.[52] The Parliament of Malta is housed at the Parliament House near the city's entrance since 2015, and it was previously housed at the Grandmaster's Palace in the city centre.[53] The latter palace still houses the Office of the President of Malta,[54] while Auberge de Castille houses the Office of the Prime Minister of Malta. The courthouse and many government departments are also located in Valletta.[55]

Geography
Satellite view of Valletta between its two harbours

The Valletta peninsula has two natural harbours, Marsamxett and the Grand Harbour.[39] The Grand Harbour is Malta's major port, with unloading quays at nearby Marsa. A cruise-liner terminal is located along the old seawall of the Valletta Waterfront that Portuguese Grandmaster Manuel Pinto da Fonseca built.[56]

Climate

Valletta features a hot-summer Mediterranean climate with hot, slightly long, dry summers and mild, wet winters, with an average temperature above 19 °C (66 °F). Valletta experiences a lack of precipitation during the summer months and most of the precipitation happens during the winter months. Winter temperatures are moderated by the surrounding sea, as a result, the city has very mild winters. The official climate recording station in Malta is at Luqa Airport, which is a few miles inland from Valletta. Average high temperatures range from around 16 °C (61 °F) in January to about 32 °C (90 °F) in August, while average low temperatures range from around 10 °C (50 °F) in January to 23 °C (73 °F) in August.

Climate data for Luqa Airport, Malta 1981–2010 (Records 1947–present)
Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Year
Record high °C (°F) 22.2
(72.0)		 26.7
(80.1)		 33.5
(92.3)		 30.7
(87.3)		 35.3
(95.5)		 40.1
(104.2)		 42.7
(108.9)		 43.8
(110.8)		 37.4
(99.3)		 34.5
(94.1)		 28.2
(82.8)		 24.3
(75.7)		 43.8
(110.8)
Average high °C (°F) 15.6
(60.1)		 15.6
(60.1)		 17.3
(63.1)		 19.8
(67.6)		 24.1
(75.4)		 28.6
(83.5)		 31.5
(88.7)		 31.8
(89.2)		 28.5
(83.3)		 25.0
(77.0)		 20.7
(69.3)		 17.1
(62.8)		 23.0
(73.4)
Daily mean °C (°F) 12.8
(55.0)		 12.5
(54.5)		 13.9
(57.0)		 16.1
(61.0)		 19.8
(67.6)		 23.9
(75.0)		 26.6
(79.9)		 27.2
(81.0)		 24.7
(76.5)		 21.5
(70.7)		 17.7
(63.9)		 14.4
(57.9)		 19.3
(66.7)
Average low °C (°F) 9.9
(49.8)		 9.4
(48.9)		 10.6
(51.1)		 12.4
(54.3)		 15.5
(59.9)		 19.1
(66.4)		 21.7
(71.1)		 22.6
(72.7)		 20.8
(69.4)		 18.1
(64.6)		 14.6
(58.3)		 11.6
(52.9)		 15.5
(59.9)
Record low °C (°F) 1.4
(34.5)		 1.7
(35.1)		 2.2
(36.0)		 4.4
(39.9)		 8.0
(46.4)		 12.6
(54.7)		 15.5
(59.9)		 15.9
(60.6)		 13.2
(55.8)		 8.0
(46.4)		 5.0
(41.0)		 2.1
(35.8)		 1.4
(34.5)
Average precipitation mm (inches) 98.5
(3.88)		 60.1
(2.37)		 44.2
(1.74)		 20.7
(0.81)		 16.0
(0.63)		 4.6
(0.18)		 0.3
(0.01)		 12.8
(0.50)		 58.6
(2.31)		 82.9
(3.26)		 92.3
(3.63)		 109.2
(4.30)		 595.8
(23.46)
Average relative humidity (%) 79 79 79 77 74 71 69 73 77 78 77 79 76
Mean monthly sunshine hours 159.0 171.0 224.0 247.0 300.0 328.0 365.0 338.0 260.0 221.0 185.0 156.0 2,954
Source 1: Meteo Climate (1981-2010 Data)[57]
Source 2: German Meteorological Service (sunshine duration 1961-1990)[58] NSO Malta[59]

Cityscape
Lower Barrakka Gardens and its monument of remembrance

The architecture of Valletta's streets and piazzas ranges from mid-16th century Baroque to Modernism. The city is the island's principal cultural center and has a unique collection of churches, palaces and museums and act as one of the city's main visitor attractions. When Benjamin Disraeli, future British Prime Minister, visited the city in 1830, he described it as "a city of palaces built by gentlemen for gentlemen," and remarked that "Valletta equals in its noble architecture, if it does not excel, any capital in Europe," and in other letters called it "comparable to Venice and Cádiz" and "full of palaces worthy of Palladio."[60][61]

Buildings of historic importance include St John's Co-Cathedral, formerly the Conventual Church of the Knights of Malta. It has the only signed work and largest painting by Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio.[62] The Auberge de Castille et Leon, formerly the official seat of the Knights of Malta of the Langue of Castille, Léon and Portugal, is now the office of the Prime Minister of Malta.[55] The Grandmaster's Palace, built between 1571 and 1574 and formerly the seat of the Grand Master of the Knights of Malta, used to house the Maltese Parliament, now situated in a purpose-built structure at the entrance to the city, and now houses the offices of the President of Malta.[63]

The National Museum of Fine Arts is a Rococo palace dating back to the late 1570s, which served as the official residence of the Commander-in-Chief of the Mediterranean Fleet during the British era from the 1820s onwards. The Manoel Theatre (Maltese: Teatru Manoel) was constructed in just ten months in 1731, by order of Grand Master António Manoel de Vilhena, and is one of the oldest working theatres in Europe. The Mediterranean Conference Centre was formerly the Sacra Infermeria. Built in 1574, it was one of Europe's most renowned hospitals during the Renaissance. The fortifications of the port, built by the Knights as a magnificent series of bastions, demi-bastions, cavaliers and curtains, approximately 100 metres (330 ft) high, all contribute to the unique architectural quality of the city.

Neighbourhoods
Peninsula view of Valletta in the foreground and Fort Saint Elmo at the front

Valletta contains a number of unofficial neighbourhoods, including:[64]

  • Strada Rjali – the main thoroughfare, Triq ir-Repubblika
  • l-Arċipierku – an area close to the Sacra Infermeria. Its name possibly derives from archipelago since it contains a number of lanes which break up the area into many "islands" of houses, or from archi-borgo since the area is located just outside Fort Saint Elmo.[65]
  • il-Baviera – an area around the English Curtain, bounded by Old Bakery, Archbishop, Marsamxett and St. Sebastian Streets. It is named after Auberge de Bavière.[65]
  • il-Biċċerija – an area close to il-Baviera, named after the slaughterhouse which was formerly located there.[65]
  • il-Kamrata – an area close to the Sacra Infermeria. It is named after the Camerata, a spiritual retreat which was demolished in the 19th century and replaced by social housing.[65]
  • Deux Balles (Maltese: Duwi Balli) – an area close to il-Baviera. The name probably originates from the French occupation.[65]
  • il-Fossa – an area close to the Jews' Sally Port and Fort Saint Elmo. It is regarded as the worst maintained area of Valletta.[66]
  • Manderaggio (Maltese: il-Mandraġġ) – an area behind Manderaggio Curtain, bounded by St. Mark, St. Lucia, St. Patrick and Marsamxett Streets. This was meant to be a small harbour (mandracchio) but it was never completed, and a slum area developed instead. The slums were demolished in the 1950s and were rebuilt as housing estates.[65]
Aerial view showing the exterior and interior outlines of Valletta

Education

The Valletta Campus of the University of Malta is situated in the Old University Building. It serves as an extension of the Msida Campus, especially offering international masters programmes.[67]

A church school, "St. Albert the Great", is also situated in Valletta. The Headmaster is Alternattiva Demokratika politician Mario Mallia.[68][69]

Culture
Renzo Piano's Pjazza Teatru Rjal on the ruins of the Royal Opera House
Saint James Cavalier at night

Valletta has been designated European Capital of Culture for 2018.[70] The year was inaugurated with an event called Erba' Pjazez (Four Squares), with shows focused in 4 plazas in the city – Triton Square, St. George's Square, St. John's Square, and Castille Square – along with other shows in other points.[71] This was followed by the unveiling of a public art installation, Kif Jgħid il-Malti (Maltese Sayings), which featured a number of Maltese language proverb figured in gypsum, in order to engage linguistic heritage.[72][73]

Saint James Cavalier

Saint James Cavalier, originally a raised gun platform, was converted into a Centre of Creativity in the year 2000 as part of Malta's Millennium Project. It now houses a small theatre, a cinema, music rooms and art galleries. Various exhibitions are regularly held there. Since it was opened it has welcomed over a million visitors.[74]

Music

The Valletta International Baroque Festival is held every year in January. Jazz music in Malta was introduced in the Strait Street area, frequented by Allied sailors during both world wars. Malta's Jazz Festival took place here. Strait Street is also known as The Gut. This area is undergoing a programme of regeneration. The city's dual band clubs are the "King's Own Band Club" (Maltese: L-Għaqda Mużikali King's Own) and "La Valette National Philharmonic Society" (Maltese: Is-Soċjetà Filarmonika Nazzjonali La Valette).

Carnival

Valletta is the scene of the Maltese Carnival, held in February leading up to Lent.[75] In 1823 the Valletta carnival was the scene of a human crush tragedy in which at least 110 boys perished.[76]

Feasts

Twin towns – sister cities
See also: List of twin towns and sister cities in Malta

Valletta is twinned with:[77]

Transport
Bus station at Valletta

Malta International Airport is 8 kilometres (5.0 mi) from the city in the town of Luqa. Malta's public transport system, which uses buses, operates mostly on routes to or from Valletta, with their central terminus just outside the city gate. Traffic within the city itself is restricted, with some principal roads being completely pedestrian areas. In 2006, a park and ride system was implemented in order to increase the availability of parking spaces in the city. People can leave their vehicles in a nearby Floriana car park and transfer to a van for the rest of the trip.

In 2007, a congestion pricing scheme was implemented to reduce long-term parking and traffic while promoting business in the city.[78][79] An ANPR-based automated system takes photos of vehicles as they enter and exit the charging zone and vehicle owners are billed according to the duration of their stay.[78]

Valletta is served by a fleet of electric taxis which transport riders from 10 points in Valletta to any destination in the city.[80]

Sports
  • Valletta F.C. Association Football team and Futsal team
  • Valletta Lions RFC Rugby Football Union team
  • Valletta's Marsamxett Harbour a "Regatta" (Rowing) Team, which takes part in the annual traditional Regatta on Victory Day (8 September).
  • Valletta United W.P.C., a Water Polo Club hailing from Marsamxett side
  • Valletta V.C., a Volleyball club.
  • Marsamxett Boċċi, a ''Boċċi'' Club from Marsamxett, Valletta.
  • Valletta St. Paul's Boċċi, a ''Boċċi'' Club from L-Arċipierku side, Valletta.

Cultural references
  • The poems Valetta, Capital of Malta. and Strada St. Ursola.—Malta. by Letitia Elizabeth Landon were both published in Fisher's Drawing Room Scrap Book, 1837.
  • Several chapters of Thomas Pynchon's postmodern novel V. take place in the city of Valletta.
  • Much of Nicholas Rinaldi's novel The Jukebox Queen of Malta is set in Valletta.
  • Several chapters of Patrick O'Brian's novel Treason's Harbour, the 9th in his Aubrey-Maturin series, are set in Valletta.
  • A portion of Rick Riordan's novel The House of Hades is set in Valletta; here Jason Grace, Nico di Angelo, Piper McLean, Hazel Levesque and Frank Zhang reunite with their comrade Leo Valdez after Jason pilots their ship from the palace of Notus, god of the south wind, on the North African coast on a fast trip with Notus' storm spirits bound to the prow.
  • Parts of Steven Spielberg's Academy Award nominee film Munich were shot in Valletta.[81]
  • In the popular computer strategy game, Age of Empires III, Valletta and its surrounding areas are featured as the base of the main protagonist, Morgan Black, and is the setting for the first two levels of the game.
  • Valletta is the birthplace of comic book character Corto Maltese, created by Italian artist Hugo Pratt.
  • in Civilization V and Civilization VI Valletta is an independent City-State that players compete for influence over.

Further reading
  • Bianco, Lino (2009). "Valletta: A city in history" (PDF). Melita Theologica. University of Malta: Department of Architecture and Urban Design – Faculty for the Built Environment. 60 (2): 1–20. ISSN 1012-9588. OCLC 1587122. Archived from the original (PDF) on 19 March 2018.

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  2. "Study on Urban Functions, ESPON project 1.4.3" Archived 24 September 2015 at the Wayback Machine – European Observation Network for Territorial Development and Cohesion 2007, ISBN 2-9600467-2-2
  3. "Population by sex and age groups on 1 January". Eurostat. 15 April 2015. Retrieved 18 July 2015.
  4. "Estimated Population by Locality 31st March, 2014". Government of Malta. 16 May 2014. Archived from the original on 21 June 2015. Retrieved 21 June 2015.
  5. Valletta, Malta - Intercultural City - Council of Europe
  6. "The 10 Smallest Countries in Europe". World Atlas.
  7. "History of Valletta - Story About Valletta - Interesting Facts". www.visitmalta.com. Retrieved 29 February 2020.
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  22. Gugliuzzo, Carmelina (9 December 2011). "Building a Sense of Belonging. The Foundation of Valletta in Malta". Foundation, Dedication and Consecration in Early Modern Europe. Booksandjournals.brillonline.com. pp. 209–224. doi:10.1163/9789004222083_010. ISBN 9789004222083.
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  31. Eltis, David; Bradley, Keith; Cartledge, Paul (2011). The Cambridge World History of Slavery: Volume 3: AD 1420-AD 1804. Cambridge University Press. p. 144. ISBN 9780521840682.
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