Jôf di Montasio

The Jôf di Montasio (Italian, Friulian: Jôf dal Montâs, Slovene: Montaž, German: Montasch) is located in the Province of Udine, in the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region of northeastern Italy.

Jôf di Montasio
Montasch
Montasio mountain group seen from Cima di Terrarossa.
Highest point
Elevation2,752 m (9,029 ft) [1]
Prominence1,596 m (5,236 ft) [1]
Isolation31.5 km (19.6 mi) 
ListingUltra
Coordinates46°26′18″N 13°26′02″E [1]
Geography
Jôf di Montasio
Location in the Alps
LocationFriuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy
Parent rangeJulian Alps
Climbing
First ascent18 August 1877 by Hermann Findenegg and Antonio Brussoferro [2]
View from Dogna.

With its elevation of 2,752 metres (9,029 ft), it is the second highest mountain of the Julian Alps, surpassed only by Triglav. The Julian Alps are part of the Southern Limestone Alps System.

History

Since medieval times, the steep rocks of the Montasio massif, stretching about 20 kilometres (12 mi) in an east-west direction, formed the natural border between the Imperial Duchy of Carinthia in the north and the Venetian Domini di Terraferma in the south. In World War I the mountain crest up to the Sella Nevea pass was part of the Italian Front and permanently manned by the Alpini. However, no hostilities happened here as the northern slope of the mountain was too steep for an attack by the Austro-Hungarian Army.

Culture

In the valleys around the mountain, local people speak four languages - Italian, Friulian, Slovene, and German. The original German name for the mountain was Bramkofel, while the original Slovene name was Špik nad Policami or Poliški Špik. However nowadays they mostly use Montasch and Montaž, borrowed from the Friulian name.

At the top of the mountain stands a cross and a bell in memory of Riccardo Deffar.

Climbing routes

There are many climbing routes from all sides. Many of them are hard rock climbing routes and ferratas, in particular from the north-east side. The normal mountaineering route is from the south side. It passes the Rifugio Brazza, at round 1650 m above the sea level. After that you can choose either the direction towards the Pipan ladder, or towards Findenegg Couloir and Suringar bivouac which is at 2400 m above the sea level.

The Ladder is 60 meters long steel structure and you should have ferrata equipment. Some sections in the Findenegg Couloir route are a bit exposed, and you also have some simple scramble at several places above the Suringar bivouac.

See also

References
  1. "Europe Ultra-Prominences". Peaklist.org. Retrieved 2012-10-30.
  2. Mag. Hermann von Findenegg (Findenig) Der Erstbesteiger des Montasch



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