Country Captain

Country captain is a curried chicken and rice dish, which is popular in the Southern United States. It was introduced to the United States through Charleston, Savannah, New York and Philadelphia, but has origins in the Indian subcontinent. The dish was once included in the U.S. military's Meal, Ready-to-Eat packs, in honor of it being a favorite dish of George S. Patton.

Country captain
Country captain
TypeCurry
Place of originIndian subcontinent
Main ingredientschicken, onions, curry powder; usually golden raisins and almonds

It has also appeared on television shows in both the United States and in the United Kingdom, with chefs Bobby Flay, Atul Kochhar and Cyrus Todiwala all cooking the dish. Todiwala served his version to Queen Elizabeth II as part of her Diamond Jubilee celebrations.

Description

In its basic form, country captain is a mild stew made with browned chicken pieces, onions, and curry powder.[1] Almonds and golden raisins or zante currants are usually added.[2] Many versions also call for tomatoes, garlic, and bell peppers.[3] The dish is served over white rice.[1] With the exception of the rice, it is meant to be cooked all in the same pot.[2] Chef Mamrej Khan has referred to the dish as one of the first fusion dishes to be developed, making it part of the Anglo-Indian cuisine.[4]

Country captain originated in India as a simple spatchcock poultry or game recipe involving onions and curry and possibly enjoyed by British officers.[4][5] One theory is that an early 19th-century British sea captain, possibly from the East India Company,[6] working in the spice trade introduced it to the American South via the port of Savannah. The dish remains popular amongst the communities in Mumbai, India.[4] The "country" part of the dish's name dates from when the term referred to things of Indian origin instead of British, and so the term "country captain" would have meant a captain of Indian origin, a trader along the coasts of India.[5] Others claim that the word "captain" in the title is simply a corruption of the word "capon".[7]

In 1991, The New York Times columnist Molly O’Neill researched the origin of the dish known as country captain,[8] which had been a steady feature in southern cookbooks since the 1950s. Working with Cecily Brownstone, they discovered that the dish originally published in the United States in the pages of Miss Leslie’s New Cookery Book published in Philadelphia in 1857.[9] The recipe required a "fine full-grown fowl".[10] It also appeared in the kitchens of Alessandro Filippini, who was a chef with a restaurant on Wall Street in the 18th century.[9]

Fans of the dish have included Franklin D. Roosevelt, who encountered country captain while visiting the Little White House in Warm Springs, Georgia.[11] Roosevelt introduced it to George S. Patton, and it was Patton's love for the dish which subsequently resulted in it being added in his honor to the U.S. Army's Meal, Ready-to-Eat field rations in 2000.[9] A variety of Southern chefs have recipes for the dish, including Paul Prudhomme,[12] Paula Deen and Emeril Lagasse.[2][13] The dish was featured on an episode of Throwdown! with Bobby Flay in season 6 guest-starring Matt and Ted Lee.[14] It also appeared on the BBC One cooking show, Saturday Kitchen, with chef Atul Kochhar cooking the regular chicken and rice version of the dish.[1]

Variations

Chef Cyrus Todiwala cooked a variation of country captain on Saturday Kitchen. His version was similar to shepherd's pie, in that the meat was baked under a layer of potato.[15] He had previously cooked the dish for Queen Elizabeth II and the Duke of Edinburgh at Krishna Avanti Primary School in Harrow as part of the Queen's Diamond Jubilee celebrations in 2012. That version of the dish used a rare breed of lamb from the Orkney Islands which had been fed on seaweed.[16] The dish is also now on the menu of Todiwala's London restaurant, Café Spice Namasté.[17]

See also

References
  1. Kochhar, Atul. "Country captain chicken curry". BBC Food. Retrieved 25 August 2012.
  2. Lagasse, Emeril. "Country Captain". Food Network. Archived from the original on 29 August 2012. Retrieved 25 August 2012.
  3. Maroukian, Francine. "Anatomy of a Classic: Country Captain". Garden & Gun. Retrieved 25 August 2012.
  4. "The history of Country Captain chicken curry". Yahoo! Lifestyle. 9 February 2012. Retrieved 25 August 2012.
  5. "Anglo-Indian Cookery". Huffington Post. Retrieved 25 August 2012.
  6. Pogson, Maureen (10 March 2009). "Reader's recipe: Country captain". The Guardian. Retrieved 25 August 2012.
  7. Claiborne, Craig (1990). The New York Times Cookbook, Revised Edition. The New York Times. p. 157. ISBN 0-06-016010-1.
  8. O'Neill, Molly (1991-04-17). "Long Ago Smitten, She Remains True to the Country Captain (Published 1991)". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 2021-02-03.
  9. Sifton, Sam (23 January 2009). "Master Class". The New York Times. Retrieved 25 August 2012.
  10. Cuttino, Jeff (7 January 2011). "Virginia Willis' Country Captain Chicken recipe a Southern-Indian curiosity". Examiner. Retrieved 25 August 2012.
  11. Moss, Robert (October 9, 2014). "Country Captain is the Southern Icon You May Have Never Tasted". www.seriouseats.com. Retrieved 2021-02-03.
  12. Prudhomme, Paul. "Country Captain". KPauls.com. Archived from the original on 24 September 2012. Retrieved 25 August 2012.
  13. Deen, Paula. "Paula Deen's Country Captain Chicken". ABC. Archived from the original on 30 August 2012. Retrieved 25 August 2012.
  14. "Country Captain Chicken". Food Network. Archived from the original on 12 September 2011. Retrieved 6 August 2011.
  15. Todiwala, Cyrus. "Country captain shepherd's pie". BBC Food. Retrieved 25 August 2012.
  16. Stanford, Janie (30 March 2012). "Cyrus Todiwala cooks for the Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh". Caterer and Hotelkeeper. Archived from the original on 26 April 2012. Retrieved 24 August 2012.
  17. "A'la carte". Café Spice Namasté. Archived from the original on 7 January 2011. Retrieved 24 August 2012.
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