Bouldering at the 2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup

The 2017 season of the IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 19th season of the competition. Bouldering competitions were being held at seven stops of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. The bouldering season began on April 7 at the World Cup in Meiringen, and concluded on 19 August at the World Cup in Munich. At each stop a qualifying was held on the first day, and the semi-final and final rounds were conducted on the second day of the competition. The winners were awarded trophies, and the best three finishers received medals. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Shauna Coxsey won the women's World Cup and Jongwon Chon won the men's World Cup.

Bouldering
at the 2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Jongwon Chon KOR, winner of the World Cup 2017
Location Meiringen, Switzerland

Chongqing, China
Nanjing, China
Hachioji, Japan
Vail, United States
Navi Mumbai, India

Munich, Germany
Dates7 April – 19 August 2017
Champions
Men Jongwon Chon
Women Shauna Coxsey

Changes from the previous season

For the 2017 season the IFSC changed the timing method for the finals of World Cup tournaments. Beginning in 2017 any attempt would only be considered successful if the athlete had reached the top and demonstrated control over it within the four minute time limit. (four minutes dead rule) Previously boulderers had four minutes per boulder, but a boulderer was allowed to finish their attempt if they had successfully started the boulder within the four minute limit. (four minutes plus rule) [1]

Streaming controversy

Before the start of the 2017 season the IFSC announced that they had signed a three-year contract with the streaming platform FloSports,[2] which would have made the streams of climbing World Cups available only to paying customers instead of being freely accessible. This led to an online petition asking the IFSC to change their deal with FloSports, which was signed by more than 12,000 people,[3] and an open letter by the Athletes' Commission. The Commission voiced their frustration over the way the IFSC had previously communicated with the community at large, and "asked the athletes to withdraw cooperation with the livestream media until changes are made".[3] On the next day the IFSC apologized for having made a mistake, and announced that the deal with FloSports had not actually been signed yet despite the earlier press release, and would not be concluded.[4]

Overall ranking
Winners 2017 Men: 1st Place: Jongwon Chon KOR, 2nd Place: Tomoa Narasaki JPN, 3rd Place: Alexey Rubtsov RUS
Winners 2017 Women: 1st Place: Shauna Coxsey GBR, 2nd Place: Janja Garnbret SLO, 3rd. Place: Akiyo Noguchi JPN

Men
Rank Name Points
1 Jongwon Chon 453
2 Tomoa Narasaki 404
3 Alexey Rubtsov 399
4 Keita Watabe 372
5 Kokoro Fujii 327
6 Rei Sugimoto 278
7 Jan Hojer 235
8 Yoshiyuki Ogata 232
9 Jernej Kruder 201
10 Jakob Schubert 186

Women
Rank Name Points
1 Shauna Coxsey 560
2 Janja Garnbret 470
3 Akiyo Noguchi 381
4 Miho Nonaka 377
5 Petra Klingler 290
6 Staša Gejo 234
7 Katja Kadic 227
8 Michaela Tracy 190
9 Fanny Gibert 187
10 Aya Onoe 165

National teams

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Name Points
1 Japan 2118
2 Great Britain 929
3 Slovenia 927
4 Germany 736
5 France 715
6 Republic of Korea 694
7 Russian Federation 608
8 Austria 548
8 Suisse 368
10 United States of America 340

Meiringen, Switzerland (7–8 April)

Women

78 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Shauna Coxsey (4t10 4b8) won the competition in front of Katharina Saurwein (2t6 3b13).[5]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Shauna Coxsey 4t10 4b8 100
2 Katharina Saurwein 2t6 3b13 80
3 Miho Nonaka 1t2 3b6 65
4 Stasa Gejo 1t3 3b3 55
5 Petra Klingler 1t3 2b3 51
6 Janja Garnbret 0t 2b4 47

Men

115 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Kokoro Fujii (1t1 3b6) won the competition in front of Alexey Rubtsov (1t2 2b8).[5]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Kokoro Fujii 1t1 3b6 100
2 Alexey Rubtsov 1t2 2b8 80
3 Keita Watabe 1t3 2b12 65
4 Rei Sugimoto 1t5 3b7 55
5 Jernej Kruder 0t 2b3 51
6 David Firnenburg 0t 1b4 47

Chongqing, China (22–23 April)

Women

42 athletes attended the World Cup in Chongqing. Janja Garnbret (4t11 4b7) won the competition in front of Shauna Coxsey (3t4 4b5).[6]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Janja Garnbret 4t11 4b7 100
2 Shauna Coxsey 3t4 4b5 80
3 Akiyo Noguchi 3t13 4b13 65
4 Anna Stöhr 1t3 3b6 55
5 Alannah Yip 1t3 3b8 51
6 Stasa Gejo 1t4 3b7 47

Men

77 athletes attended the World Cup in Chongqing. Jongwon Chon (4t6 4b5) won the competition in front of Tomoa Narasaki (2t2 3b3), who claimed the second place over Alexey Rubtsov by virtue of his better semi-final score.[6]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Jongwon Chon 4t6 4b5 100
2 Tomoa Narasaki 2t2 3b3 80
3 Alexey Rubtsov 2t2 3b3 65
4 Keita Watabe 2t3 3b3 55
5 Kai Harada 1t1 3b4 51
6 Manuel Cornu 1t4 3b8 47

Nanjing, China (29–30 April)

Women

50 athletes attended the World Cup in Nanjing. Shauna Coxsey (4t12 4b12) won her second World Cup competition of the season. At this point Coxsey and Nanjing runner-up Janja Garnbret (3t7 3b7) were the only two athletes to have made the final of all World Cups of the season.[7]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Shauna Coxsey 4t12 4b12 100
2 Janja Garnbret 3t7 3b7 80
3 Miho Nonaka 2t6 4b15 65
4 Jain Kim 1t5 2b11 55
5 Aya Onoe 0t 3b8 51
6 Mei Kotake 0t 1b3 47

Men

83 athletes attended the World Cup in Nanjing. Keita Watabe (4t9 4b8), the only athlete in all World Cup finals of the season at this point, won his first World Cup competition. Tomoa Narasaki (3t6 4b7) came in second.[7]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Keita Watabe 4t9 4b8 100
2 Tomoa Narasaki 3t6 4b7 80
3 Jernej Kruder 2t5 3b5 65
4 Jongwon Chon 1t1 3b8 55
5 Manuel Cornu 0t 3b3 51
6 Rei Sugimoto 0t 3b4 47

Hachioji, Japan (6–7 May)

Women

54 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachiōji, Tokyo. Janja Garnbret (4t5 4b4) won her second World Cup of the season. Akiyo Noguchi (4t9 4b9) won the silver medal.[8]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Janja Garnbret 4t5 4b4 100
2 Akiyo Noguchi 4t9 4b9 80
3 Miho Nonaka 3t4 4b5 65
4 Shauna Coxsey 2t2 3b3 55
5 Fanny Gibert 2t6 4b12 51
6 Petra Klingler 1t1 3b5 47

Men

84 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachiōji. Alexey Rubtsov (3t8 4b13) won the World Cup in front of Tomoa Narasaki (3t9 4b19), who had his third consecutive silver medal finish.[8]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Alexey Rubtsov 3t8 4b13 100
2 Tomoa Narasaki 3t9 4b19 80
3 Keita Watabe 2t5 3b6 65
4 Mickael Mawem 1t1 4b8 55
5 Jakob Schubert 1t2 3b5 51
6 Taisei Ishimatsu 1t3 4b9 47

Vail, United States (9–10 June)

Women

55 athletes attended the World Cup in Vail. Shauna Coxsey (4t5 4b4) won her third World Cup of the season. Akiyo Noguchi (4t9 4b9) won silver again. For the first time this season Janja Garnbret did not reach the final.[9]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Shauna Coxsey 3t4 4b5 100
2 Akiyo Noguchi 3t6 4b6 80
3 Miho Nonaka 3t7 4b7 65
4 Alex Puccio 3t10 4b10 55
5 Katja Kadic 1t3 2b4 51
6 Petra Klingler 0t 1b2 47

Men

59 athletes attended the World Cup in Vail. Jongwon Chon (4t9 4b8) won the World Cup in front of Meichi Narasaki (3t6 3b5).[9]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Jongwon Chon 4t9 4b8 100
2 Meichi Narasaki 3t6 3b5 80
3 Yoshiyuki Ogata 3t11 4b7 65
4 Alexey Rubtsov 2t5 3b8 55
5 Kokoro Fujii 2t6 4b10 51
6 Keita Watabe 1t3 1b3 47

Women

41 athletes attended the World Cup in Navi Mumbai. Shauna Coxsey (4t11 4b8) won her fourth World Cup of the season, thereby securing the overall seasonal title. Miho Nonaka (3t7 4b11) came in second.[10]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Shauna Coxsey 4t11 4b8 100
2 Miho Nonaka 3t7 4b11 80
3 Akiyo Noguchi 2t3 3b7 65
4 Petra Klingler 1t3 3b4 55
5 Katja Kadic 0t 3b6 51
6 Aya Onoe 0t 1b5 47

Men

58 athletes attended the World Cup in Navi Mumbai. Jongwon Chon (4t10 4b10) won the World Cup in front of Rei Sugimoto (3t6 3b4). This left Chon, Rubtsov, and Watabe with a chance to claim the overall title at the final World Cup of the season in Munich.[10]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Jongwon Chon 4t10 4b10 100
2 Rei Sugimoto 3t6 3b4 80
3 Alexey Rubtsov 3t9 3b8 65
4 Kokoro Fujii 1t1 3b9 55
5 Jakob Schubert 1t1 3b11 51
6 Tomoa Narasaki 1t1 2b2 47

Munich, Germany (18–19 August)

Women

114 athletes attended the World Cup in Munich. Janja Garnbret (3t10 3b6) won her second World Cup of the season, thereby securing the second place overall. Shauna Coxsey (2t2 2b2) won the Silver medal. She had locked up the overall title before the Munich competition already.[11]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Janja Garnbret 3t10 3b6 100
2 Shauna Coxsey 2t2 2b2 80
3 Akiyo Noguchi 1t1 2b4 65
4 Stasa Gejo 1t3 3b9 55
5 Alex Puccio 1t3 2b4 51
6 Petra Klingler 0t 1b4 47

Men

166 athletes attended the World Cup in Munich. Germany's Jan Hojer (4t10 4b6) won the World Cup in front of Tomoa Narasaki (3t6 3b3). However, Narasaki's four second places over the course of the season were not enough to defend his overall title. The overall title went to Jongwon Chon, who had come in fourth in Munich.[11]

Rank Name Score Points
1 Jan Hojer 4t10 4b6 100
2 Tomoa Narasaki 3t6 3b3 80
3 Taisei Ishimatsu 3t7 3b4 65
4 Jongwon Chon 2t3 3b4 55
5 Yoshiyuki Ogata 2t4 3b4 51
6 Kokoro Fujii 2t9 2b6 47

References
  1. "New IFSC 4 minute rule: from hero to zero". Siked!. 3 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
  2. "IFSC and FloSports Sign Online Streaming Deal". International Federation of Sport Climbing. 5 April 2017. Archived from the original on 24 April 2018. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
  3. "The climbers speak: Open letter from the Athletes' Commission". OnBouldering.com. 11 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
  4. "Free streaming! The IFSC backtracks and cancels the FloClimbing deal". OnBouldering.com. 12 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
  5. "Meiringen Bouldering World Cup 2017 Results". OnBouldering.com. 8 April 2017. Retrieved 23 April 2018.
  6. "Janja Garnbret and Jongwon Chon claim the gold in Chongqing". OnBouldering.com. 23 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
  7. "Results Nanjing Bouldering World Cup 2017". OnBouldering.com. 30 April 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
  8. "Results Hachioji Bouldering World Cup 2017". OnBouldering.com. 7 May 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
  9. "Results Vail Bouldering World Cup 2017". OnBouldering.com. 11 June 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
  10. "Coxsey and Chon take the gold in Navi Mumbai. Coxsey has secured the overall title". OnBouldering.com. 25 June 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
  11. "Results Munich Bouldering World Cup 2017". OnBouldering.com. 19 August 2017. Retrieved 24 April 2018.
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