Simon Nadin

Simon Nadin (born 1965) is a British world cup-winning rock climber and professional photographer.[1]

Simon Nadin
Personal information
Born1965 (age 54–55)
UK
Climbing career
Type of climberSport climbing
Medal record
IFSC Climbing World Cup
Winner1989Lead
Updated on 27 April 2013.

Climbing

Nadin was a climbing all-rounder and pioneered routes which set new levels in climbing.[1] He started climbing on gritstone outcrops, such as The Roaches, near his home in Buxton[2] and using nuts made in his school metalwork lessons.[2]

Within a year of starting climbing he was climbing at E6 level[2] and in later years frequently onsight-soloed E4, E5 or harder routes. The discrepancy between his redpoint and competition standard is cited in the 1993 book Performance rock climbing (Dale Goddard & Udo Neumann) as being the start of the trend of climbers training specifically for one type of climbing.

In 1989, having only been a professional climber for six months, he became the first IFSC Climbing World Cup champion, beating Didier Raboutou at the final round in Lyon with an audience of 8000 people.[3] He also came first in that round of the World Cup winning £3000 for this.[3] Nadin was nearly disqualified twice for late arrival due to not seeing instructions put up in the official hotel, as the UK team was staying in a youth hostel.[3]

Later in 1989 he unsuccessfully attempted to free climb The Nose on El Capitan with Lynn Hill.[4]

Nadin's training methods were unusual - training 'heavy' in the winter, drinking much beer - but still able to complete difficult ascents having not climbed for a period of time.[5]

Media

He appeared in series 3 of Coast climbing The Old Man of Hoy with Neil Oliver and Andy Cave.[6]

Nadin appeared in cartoons in On The Edge magazine drawn by Alan James alongside other climbers such as Ben Moon, Jerry Moffatt and Johnny Dawes. Nadin is depicted speaking quietly and drinking beer in the background.[7]

Selected Climbs
  • Barriers in Time - The Roaches
  • Thing on a Spring - The Roaches
  • Paralogism - The Roaches
  • Painted Rumour - The Roaches
  • Dangerous Crocodile Snogging - Ramshaw Rocks, Staffordshire
  • Never Never Land - Ramshaw, Staffordshire
  • Master of Reality - Hen Cloud, Staffordshire
  • B4XS - Hen Cloud, Staffordshire
  • Inaccessible - Ina's Rock, Churnet Valley
  • Menopause - 6b (solo) - Stoney Middleton

References
  1. "Simon Nadin - Living Art". living-art.org.uk. 2013. Retrieved 27 April 2013.
  2. "Simon Nadin (1965-): The World Champ Next Door". ote.dsl.pipex.com. 2009. Retrieved 27 April 2013.
  3. Clouston, Erlend (20 November 1989). "From the archive, 20 November 1989: Miracle, miracle on the wall, GB is the best of all". The Guardian. London: GMG. ISSN 0261-3077. OCLC 60623878. Retrieved 27 April 2013.
  4. Hill, Lynn (2008). "Freeing the Nose". In Jeffrey Mathes Mccarthy (ed.). Contact: mountain climbing and environmental thinking. University of Nevada Press. p. 189. ISBN 9780874177466.
  5. "Mountain Heritage Trust". mountain-heritage.org. 2013. Retrieved 27 April 2013.
  6. "BBC - Coast". bbc.co.uk. 2013. Retrieved 27 April 2013.
  7. "Pokketz | Rockfax". rockfax.com. 2013. Retrieved 27 April 2013.
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