Roy Choi

Roy Choi (born February 24, 1970)[1] is a Korean American chef who gained prominence as the creator of the gourmet Korean-Mexican taco truck Kogi.[2][3][4][5] Choi is a chef who is celebrated for "food that isn't fancy" and is known as one of the founders of the gourmet food truck movement.[6] In 2019, Choi began presenting a cooking series on Netflix with Jon Favreau titled The Chef Show.

Roy Choi
Roy Choi from Kogi BBQ
Aspen Food & Wine Fest 2010
Born
Roy S Choi

(1970-02-24) February 24, 1970
Seoul, South Korea
EducationCulinary Institute of America
Southern California Military Academy
Culinary career
Websitekogibbq.com

Early life

Choi was born in Seoul, South Korea, to South Korean father Soo Myung Choi and North Korean mother Jai Nam Choi.[7] Choi's parents met in the US but after marrying moved back to Korea. The family ended up emigrating from South Korea permanently in 1972.[8]

Choi was raised in Los Angeles and southern California. As Choi grew up, his parents had many businesses: a liquor store, dry-cleaning shop, a Korean restaurant, and after selling jewelry door to door, finally a successful jewelry company.[9] His parents owned a Korean restaurant called Silver Garden in Anaheim, California [10] for three years when he was young. Choi's mother made kimchi that was so popular within their community that they packaged it and sold it locally.[6] His favorite childhood memory is making dumplings at the age of eight at his family's own restaurant.[11] The family moved many times while he was young.[3]

His family once lived near Olympic Boulevard and Vermont Avenue, as well as in South Central, the Crenshaw District and West Hollywood.[12]

Choi attended a gifted-students program, but changed schools in his early teens when his parents achieved prosperity in the jewelry business and moved their family into a neighborhood in Orange County called Villa Park,[6][13] Choi began getting into trouble, with his marks slipping as he began taking drugs and hanging out with a bad crowd.[3] At age 15, Choi's parents sent him to Southern California Military Academy in Signal Hill, California. He remembers this as a good experience.[3]

After high school, Choi went to Korea and taught English there. He then attended California State University, Fullerton, graduating with a bachelor's degree in philosophy. Choi attended Western State University law school, and dropped out after one semester.[3] At 24, confused about his life, and in a dark period around 1994 or 1995, Choi said he became obsessed with Emeril Lagasse's "Essence of Emeril" show.[14] The show inspired him to enroll in culinary school. "Emeril saved my life," Choi said.[3]

In 1996, Choi began studying at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York.[11] He enjoyed the highly structured block programs, where there was no "wiggle room."[6] He worked during this period as an intern at Le Bernardin in New York City.[3]

Career

Choi gained experience as a journeyman hotel chef since the mid-1990s.[2] In 2001, he started working for Hilton Hotels. After being promoted within the company, in 2007, Choi became chef de cuisine at the Beverly Hilton. It was there that Choi met his future business partner, Mark Manguera.[3]

Choi also worked at the Embassy Suites in Sacramento and the Rock Sugar Pan Asian Kitchen in Los Angeles.[2][11]

After this classical training and years of background in four and five star cooking, Choi said that the shift to the food trucks, initially based on Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Venice[15] was great.[2] Choi's company, Kogi, was founded in 2008 with partners Mark Manguera and his wife, Caroline Shin-Manguera.[3]

He was named one of the top ten "Best New Chefs" of 2010 by Food and Wine magazine, and is the first food truck operator to win that distinction.[11] Choi currently runs Sunny Spot, in Venice, CA, which is Caribbean-inspired. He ran the Los Angeles-area restaurant Chego! which featured rice bowls,[16] and A-Frame which conveyed the Hawaiian idea of aloha and was built in a former IHOP,[6] in addition to Pot[17] at the Line Hotel in Koreatown.[11] In December, 2018, Choi opened a restaurant named Best Friend in Las Vegas, NV.[18] His cooking style fuses Mexican and Korean flavors and dishes.[19]

In June 2013, Choi along with fellow chefs Wolfgang Puck and David Chang, convened at the Hotel Bel-Air to fuse different styles such as ggaejjang style and kochujang onto the Hotel Bel-Air menu.[20]

In November 2013, Choi released his autobiography that is part memoir part cookbook[6] called L.A. Son: My Life, My City, My Food.[21][22]

Choi said he didn't start out to write a book, but that he kept getting asked the same questions about his food, its flavors, and how it is prepared.[23] While Choi doesn't see the book as social commentary, he felt it was important to show the "real deal" of the duality he felt growing up as an immigrant in the 1970s; the foods served in the restaurant were quite different from what the family ate at home. The book also talks about the culture of Los Angeles and how it has changed since the 1970s.[23]

The Jon Favreau movie Chef (2014) was loosely inspired by Choi and the food truck movement. Choi worked as a technical advisor to Favreau on cooking and restaurant scenes and appears in the end credits. In addition to touring all of Choi's restaurants, Favreau attended a French culinary school and trained in several of Choi's kitchens.[24] In 2019, Favreau and Choi collaborated on a cooking show on Netflix: The Chef Show.[25]

Time had included Choi in their TIME 100 list of the most influential people in the world for 2011[4] and 2016.[26][27] Fellow chef and author Anthony Bourdain wrote that "Roy Choi first changed the world when he elevated the food-truck concept from "roach coach" to highly sought-after, ultra-hot-yet-democratic rolling restaurant."[26] In 2015, Choi and chef Daniel Patterson opened a restaurant called LocoL in Watts, Los Angeles, with the goal of bringing quality, healthy, and inspired fast-food to inner-city neighborhoods.[28]

In 2019, Choi produced and hosted a TV series, Broken Bread on Tastemade and KCET in Los Angeles.[29]

Personal life

Choi goes by the nicknames "Papi" and "El Guapo."[15]

He teaches cooking when he volunteers at A Place Called Home in South Los Angeles.[30]

Choi is a supporter of 3 Worlds Cafe, a South Central community coffee and smoothie shop that is a collaboration between Choi, the neighborhood-based Coalition for Responsible Community Development, fruit conglomerate Dole Packaged Foods and nearby Jefferson High School.[31]

He also maintains a blog on which he posts recipes and rants.[19]

During his difficult teen years and later as a young adult, Choi said he had many addictions. He was addicted to crack for a short time, marijuana and gambling, which lasted three years in his early 20s. Choi says that his current addiction is feeding people.[6]

Choi has a daughter.[3]

Publications
  • Choi, Roy; Nguyen, Tien; Phan, Natasha & Fisher, Bobby (2013). L.A. Son: My Life, My City, My Food. New York, NY: Ecco, an imprint of HarperCollins Publishers. ISBN 978-0-062-20263-5.

References
  1. Wang, Andy (February 28, 2012). "Broken Social Scene". New York Post. Retrieved May 13, 2014.
  2. Bruno, Antoinette (March 1, 2010). "Rising Stars: Community Award Winner Chef Roy Choi". StarChefs. Retrieved June 19, 2013.
  3. McLaughlin, Katy (January 15, 2010). "The King of the Streets Moves Indoors". The Wall Street Journal. Retrieved June 19, 2013.
  4. "The 2011 Time 100 Poll: Time 100 Candidates: Roy Choi". Time. April 4, 2011. Retrieved June 19, 2013.
  5. Goodyear, Dana (May 10, 2012). "Vegetable State of Mind: Roy Choi". The New Yorker. Retrieved June 19, 2013.
  6. Gross, Terry (November 7, 2013). "Roy Choi's Tacos Channel LA And The Immigrant Experience". Fresh Air. NPR. Transcript of episode. Retrieved May 13, 2014.
  7. "Roy S Choi, "United States Public Records"". FamilySearch. Retrieved May 13, 2014.
  8. "Choi, Roy, 1970–". Library of Congress Authorities. Retrieved May 13, 2014.
  9. Chaudhry, Nidhi (November 22, 2013). "Roy Choi Author of L.A. Son Interview". Kirkus Reviews. Retrieved May 13, 2014.
  10. "L.A. Son". Kirkus Reviews. October 20, 2013. Retrieved May 13, 2014.
  11. "2010 Best New Chef Award Profile: Roy Choi". Food and Wine. Retrieved June 19, 2013.
  12. Knoll, Corina (April 12, 2014). "Learning in reverse brought Kogi chef Roy Choi to the top". Los Angeles Times. Retrieved May 13, 2014.
  13. Tatusian, Tenny (November 21, 2013). "Roy Choi: He's the face of L.A. at the moment". Los Angeles Times. Retrieved May 13, 2014.
  14. Stein, Joel (March 29, 2010). "Gourmet On the Go: Good Food Goes Trucking". Time. Retrieved May 13, 2014.
  15. "Roy Choi – Kogi BBQ". KCET. March 26, 2010. Retrieved May 13, 2014.
  16. Hallock, Betty (May 3, 2013). "Roy Choi on Chego's move to Chinatown: 'The space has a kind of spiritual glow to it'". Los Angeles Times. Retrieved June 19, 2013.
  17. Hallock, Betty (March 28, 2014). "Roy Choi's Pot is open: Hot pots, uni dynamite and Bell Biv DeVoe". Los Angeles Times. Retrieved May 7, 2014.
  18. Dwyer, Chris (January 1, 2019). "World's hottest new restaurants to try in 2019". CNN Travel. Retrieved January 2, 2019.
  19. Sifton, Sam (July 12, 2012). "Roy Choi's Food-Truck Barbecue Blends Mexico and Korea". The New York Times. Retrieved June 20, 2013.
  20. Harris, Jenn (June 19, 2013). "Wolfgang Puck, Roy Choi and David Chang cook a meal to 'shock' diners". Los Angeles Times. Retrieved June 20, 2013.
  21. Tomicki, Hadley (April 4, 2013). "Roy Choi Releasing L.A. Son: My Life, My City, My Food in November". Grub Street Los Angeles. Retrieved June 20, 2013.
  22. Coover, Doe (November 4, 2013). "L.A. Son". Publishers Weekly. Retrieved May 13, 2014.
  23. Choi, Roy (Speaker) (December 4, 2013). Chefs @ Google: Roy Choi (Google Talk). Los Angeles, CA: Google – via YouTube.
  24. Epstein, Andrew (May 9, 2014). "Jon Favreau on How Roy Choi Shaped Chef". Eater. Retrieved May 13, 2014.
  25. Jackson, Angelique (June 7, 2019). "Jon Favreau Talks 'The Chef Show,' an Oscar for Robert Downey Jr. and Collaborating with Beyoncé". Variety.
  26. Bourdain, Anthony (April 21, 2016). "The 100 Most Influential People: Roy Choi". Time.
  27. Snyder, Garrett (April 21, 2016). "Roy Choi Just Made Time Magazine's 100 Most Influential People List". LA Weekly.
  28. "Soul Food: A Meeting on the Fringe with Roy Choi and Portugal. The Man". FLOOD. Retrieved May 31, 2018.
  29. Kelly, Mary Louise (May 20, 2019). "Chef Roy Choi Explores Food Activism In His New Show, 'Broken Bread'". NPR.
  30. Barnett, Bob (May 29, 2013). "What Chef Roy Choi Is Teaching South Central L.A. Students". The Huffington Post. Retrieved June 19, 2013.
  31. Simmons, Andrew (June 25, 2013). "Roy Choi's 3 Worlds Cafe Coming to South Central + An Opening Party". LA Weekly. Retrieved May 13, 2014.
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