Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology
Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology was an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art that ran from May 5, to September 5, 2016. The exhibition was established due to the dichotomy between Manus (the hand) also known as haute couture and Machina (by machine) also known as prêt-à-porter. With 170+ collection varying from the 20th Century to present day.[1]
"Exhibition designer Shohei Shigematsu commented, “The diverse range of garments required a neutral, integrated environment to focus on the pairings of manual and mechanical processes. An armature of scaffolding wrapped with a translucent fabric introduces a unique temporarily within a historic institution.”[2] There are so many more aspects to showing fashion. Designing fashion has different and unique steps to it. Shohei Shigematsu also said, "We really wanted to create a shell that integrated the media, garments and texts together. Each of these different porte-cochères showcase the garments, along with projections of their details that work to amplify the craftsmanship in the pieces."[3]
The exhibition explored the evolution of clothing, and the way it's made. It covered the origins of haute couture in the 19th century, the same year the sewing machine was invented. There is a great focus on whether or not hand made or machine made clothing has an influence on the artists creative process. Certain aspects of the exhibition direct the viewers attention to the clothing's DNA by laying out various case studies. The DNA reveals if the article was produced by hand or by machine.[4]
The relationship between gramets made by hand and or by machine is very complex, the exhibitions goal was to bring Manus and Manchina together as equals to solving fashion and designer problems around the world. Embracing and utilizing techniques and practices off one another. It advocates for the institutions of the haute couture and prêt-à-porter.
"At the same time, the exhibition questions the cultural and symbolic meanings of the hand-machine dichotomy. Typically, the hand has been identified with exclusivity and individuality as well as with elitism and the cult of personality. Similarly, the machine has been understood to signify not only progress and democracy but also dehumanization and homogenization."[5]
The exhibition featured pieces by renowned designers such as Maria Grazia Chiuri, Pier Paolo Piccioli, Nicolas Ghesquiere, Iris Van Herpen, Christopher Kane, Karl Lagerfeld, and Miuccia Prada.
References
- "Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology". www.metmuseum.org. Retrieved 2019-09-30.
- "Shohei Shigematsu". OMA. Retrieved 2019-12-12.
- Magazine, Wallpaper* (2016-05-03). "'Manus x Machina': The Met puts couture's métiers in an OMA-designed spotlight". Wallpaper*. Retrieved 2019-12-12.
- Smith, Roberta. "At the Costume Institute, Couture Meets Technology". The New York Times. The New York Times Company. Retrieved 7 August 2020.
- www.metmuseum.org https://www.metmuseum.org/exhibitions/listings/2016/manus-x-machina/exhibition-galleries. Retrieved 2019-12-12. Missing or empty
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