François Legrand (climber)

François Legrand (born March 26, 1970) is a French professional rock climber, specialising in lead climbing. He is known for winning five Lead Climbing World Cups (1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1997), and three consecutive Lead Climbing World Championships (1991, 1993, 1995). As of 2018, no other climber was ever able to match this achievement. Second ranking for number of awarded Lead Climbing World Cups is Alexandre Chabot, who won three consecutive times (2001, 2002, 2003).

François Legrand
Legrand in 2012
Personal information
Born (1970-03-26) March 26, 1970
Grenoble, France
OccupationProfessional rock climber
Height178 cm (5 ft 10 in)
Weight65 kg (143 lb)
Climbing career
Type of climberLead climbing
Highest grade
Known forWinning 6 Lead Climbing World Cups and 3 Lead Climbing World Championships
Sport
Retired2003
Updated on April 30, 2019.

Biographic notes

Son of a mountain guide, he spent a lot of time on mountains since when he was a baby. His parents wanted him to become a mountain guide, rather than a sport climber. However, he was a passionate sport climber and in 1988 (age 18) he run away and moved for some months in a cave in Buoux. In the same year he began competing at national level In 1990 he moved to Aix-en-Provence, where he rented an apartment with his friend Yuji Hirayama.[1] In 1990 (age 20), he won his first Lead Climbing World Cups.

Throughout his career in competition climbing, which ended in 2003, Legrand won five Lead Climbing World Cups (1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1997), three consecutive Lead Climbing World Championships (1991, 1993, 1995) and four Rock Masters. As of 2018, no other climber was ever able to match this achievement. Second ranking for number of awarded Lead Climbing World Cups is Alexandre Chabot, who won three consecutive times (2001, 2002, 2003).

Since 2009 he is the coach for the French national youth team together with Rémi Samyn.[2]

Rankings

Climbing World Cup[3]
Discipline 1990 1991 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003
Lead 1 1 1 1 2 2 5 1 5 2 8 16 - 20

Climbing World Championships[4]
Discipline 1991 1993 1995 1997 1999 2001 2003
Lead 1 1 1 3 11 20 45

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead[4]
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
19902215
1991314
199233
1993415
1994213
19951113
1996
1997123
199811
199911
200011
200111
2002
200311
Total1711331

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

9a (5.14d):

  • Robi in the Sky - Calanques (FRA) - 2000 - First ascent[5]

8c+ (5.14c):

  • Necessary Evil - Virgin River Gorge (USA) - Fifth ascent in 2002 - Route bolted by Chris Sharma in 1997[6]
  • Getto Booty - Mount Charleston (USA) - 2000 - First ascent[7]
  • Hasta La Vista - Mount Charleston (USA)
  • Le Bronx - Orgon (FRA)
  • La Connexion - Orgon (FRA)
  • Reini's Vibe - Massone (ITA)
  • Claudio Cafè - Terra Promessa (ITA)

8c (5.14b):

  • Le Plafond - Volx (FRA) - His first 8c
  • Maginot Line - Volx (FRA)
  • Macumba Club - Orgon (FRA)
  • Injustice - Orgon (FRA)
  • U.F.O. - Calanques (FRA)
  • Pterodactile - Tolone (FRA)
  • Moutchiki - Luberon (FRA)
  • Facile - Mount Charleston (USA)

References
  1. Nicola Noè. "Arrampicare con François Legrand". planetmountain.com. Retrieved December 21, 2011.
  2. "François Legrand et Rémy Samyn à la tête des équipes de France jeunes". kairn.com. December 17, 2008. Retrieved December 21, 2011.
  3. IFSC, ed. (July 20, 2017). "World Cup Rankings". Archived from the original on July 12, 2017. Retrieved July 20, 2017.
  4. IFSC, ed. (April 30, 2019). "Legrand's profile and rankings". Retrieved April 30, 2019.
  5. Nicola Noè (December 31, 2000). "Legrand libera "Robi in the Sky", Les Goudes (Calanques)". planetmountain.com. Retrieved December 21, 2011.
  6. Nicola Noè (March 23, 2002). "Necessary Evil 8c+ USA per Legrand". planetmountain.com. Retrieved December 21, 2011.
  7. Roberto Fioravanti, Björn Pohl (August 25, 2000). "François Legrand sale "Ghetto Booty" 8c+/9a in America". planetmountain.com. Retrieved December 21, 2012.
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