Christopher Raeburn (designer)

Christopher Raeburn (born 13 August 1982) is a British fashion designer, known for reworking surplus fabrics and garments to create menswear, womenswear and accessories.[1]

Christopher Raeburn
Raeburn in his East London studio
Born13 August 1982
Kent, England
NationalityBritish
EducationRoyal College of Art
OccupationDesigner
Label(s)
Raeburn
Websitewww.raeburndesign.co.uk

Early life

Christopher Raeburn was born the youngest of three boys in Kent. His upbringing focused on the outdoors and inventing. "We were encouraged to draw something in the week and then challenged to make it with my dad on the weekend. From the age of 11, I was in air cadets, I learnt to fly. I was doing my Duke of Edinburgh. I was doing walks in Holland. I had this love of being prepared".[2]

Career

Raeburn graduated in 2006 from London's Royal College of Art. He freelanced as a pattern cutter before setting up his own studio in 2008, and later his label.[3] Raeburn participated in the 'Camouflage' exhibition at London's Imperial War Museum and featured in Hywel Davies' publication '100 New Designers'.[4] Raeburn ended 2008 with his first collection showcased during London Design Week, a capsule range of reversible garments titled Inverted.

In 2009 Raeburn showcased menswear in Paris, received an award from the International Ethical Fashion Forum,[5] and gained support from Esthetica, allowing him to show at London Fashion Week that September. In 2010, Raeburn was the first designer to be awarded Topshop NEWGEN sponsorship for both men's and women's wear in the same season.[6]

Raeburn has become known for the ethical integrity of his work, although he admits it was never his intention.[7] American Vogue's August 2010 issue highlighted Raeburn's contribution to all things green with the advice to "Remember the four R's – Reduce, Reuse, Recycle and Raeburn", accompanied by a Mario Testino shoot of Blake Lively wearing a Raeburn Duffle Coat. After viewing his Autumn/Winter 2011 London Fashion Week presentation at the disused Aldwych tube station, Style.com stated, "it's not unreasonable to assert that Christopher Raeburn is the single most radical designer working today".[8]

In 2010, Raeburn was approached by Victorinox[9] to collaborate with them on a men's and women's wear capsule collection. Victorinox set up a "Remade in Switzerland" studio in Ibach, the birthplace of Victorinox founder Karl Elsener. Not only did Raeburn source the fabrics for his collection there, but he also managed to find the original house in which Elsener started the brand, and it was there that Raeburn chose to establish his Swiss LAB to produce the 100 pieces of each style by hand.[10] The collaboration launched on schedule during New York Fashion Week in February 2011.[11]

Raeburn jacket remade from parachute

In September 2011, Raeburn was nominated and won the 2011 "Emerging Designer" British Fashion Award for menswear, by the British Fashion Council.[12] In the same year he was also nominated for the 'Observer Ethical Awards: Fashion Category' and 'Condé Nast Traveller award: design and innovation' prizes, and his 'REMADE IN SWITZERLAND' collaboration with Victorinox is shown on schedule at NYFW.[13]

In 2012, the brand started to widen its stockists list, counting more than 20 stores worldwide, including the Paris-based boutique Colette. In that year Christopher Raeburn also launched his first accessories collection, as well as the much awaited first collaboration with Moncler.[14]

The following year, Raeburn's visibility continued to increase, with the designer receiving a sponsorship from Woolmark for SS14 season. 2013 was a big year for Christopher Raeburn, who in that year not only won Designer Business of the Year at the UK Fashion and Textiles awards, but also launched two major collaborations, with Rapha and Fred Perry. He ended the year by being announced as artistic director of Victorinox Fashion, as a result of past collaborations.[15]

2014 saw two Woolmark sponsorships for Raeburn, this time towards his AW14 and his SS15 seasons, menswear and womenswear. The designer was once again shortlisted for BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund,[16] and also launched his Barbour collaboration. In the same year, Christopher Raeburn won Menswear Brand of the Year at the UK Fashion and Textiles Awards.[17]

In 2015, Raeburn was shortlisted for the second year for BFC/GQ Designer Menswear Fund [18] and he was sponsored again by Woolmark for his AW15 collection. He launched two collaborations: one with Wool and The Gang, to create a joint line of knitted accessories, and one with knitwear specialised brand Unmade, to create an interactive bespoke knitwear. In the same year Raeburn received the award for Best Emerging Designer [19] at the GQ Men of the Year Awards,[20] and later on he launched his first footwear menswear and womenswear joint collections with Clarks.[21]

RÆBURN parachute logo

At the beginning of 2016, Raeburn saw his "Layers of Natural Innovation" partnership with The Woolmark company shown at the ICA during London Fashion Week in celebration of the versatility of Merino Wool, before being shortlisted for a third year for the BFC / GQ Designer Menswear Fashion Fund. That year Raeburn also launched a collaboration with MCM.[22]

In Autumn 2018, US lifestyle brand Timberland announced its appointment of Christopher Raeburn as global creative director of the brand.[23] This was followed by the news that Raeburn would revive Left Hand and ST95, brands developed by Stone Island-founder Massimo Osti, in December 2020.[24]

Awards

Raeburn's awards include:

  • He was awarded NewGen sponsorship in 2010 for both menswear and womenswear.[25]
  • He won Rising Star in 2010 and 2011 at the UK Fashion and Textiles Awards
  • In 2011, Raeburn won the British Fashion Award for Emerging Talent Menswear.[26]
  • Raeburn was named 'Designer of the Year' at the 2013 UKFT Awards.[27]
  • He won 'Menswear Brand of the Year' at the 2014 UKFT Awards.[17]
  • In 2015, Raeburn received the award for 'Best Emerging Designer' at the GQ Men of the Year Awards.[28]
  • Glasgow Caledonian University (GCU) awarded Raeburn an honorary professorship and Lifetime Achievement Award in 2019.[29]
  • Raeburn won 'Brand of The Year' (<£30m turnover) at the Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards 2020.[30]
  • In December 2020, Raeburn won a Fashion Award 2020, selected as one of the Honourees of the Environment category.[31]

Collaborations

Raeburn has been involved in collaborations and partnerships, including:

2011

Raeburn collaborated with Victorinox to create the 'Remade in Switzerland' collection, that launched during New York Fashion Week.[10]

2012

Raeburn collaborated with Moncler to create an outerwear collection, 'Moncler R'.[14]

2013

Raeburn collaborated with Rapha to create a capsule collection of city-riding garments named 'Rapha Raeburn'.[32]

The Raeburn x Victorinox 'Festival Ready' project launched; consisting of an 11-piece collection of camping gear and outdoor-wear.[33]

Raeburn collaborated with Fred Perry as part of the Fred Perry Blank Canvas project to produce several limited edition polo shirts. The project saw Raeburn transforming the Fred Perry polo shirt into a stuffed hare for Fred Perry's 60th anniversary.[34]

2014

Raeburn worked with Oki Ni to launch his SS15 collection and in 2015 launched a video campaign showing how vintage materials can be re-created.[35]

Raeburn launched his joint collection with Barbour.[36]

2015

Raeburn was Lavazza's partner at London Collections: Men, using an elliptical shark print.[37]

Raeburn launched his first footwear collection with Clarks and received a sponsorship from Woolmark for both menswear and womenswear.[38]

2016

Raeburn launched a "sustainable" ready to wear and accessories collection, "Made to Move", with MCM.[39]

Raeburn collaborated with Disney to create a collection of bags which pay homage to Mickey and Minnie.[40]

2017

Raeburn collaborated with Save The Duck to create a collection of recycled and animal-friendly outerwear. The collection was presented at Pitti Uomo and continued for Spring/Summer 2018.[41]

Raeburn and Glasgow-based watch brand Instrmnt launched a line of watches.[42]

Raeburn's collaboration with Porter Yoshida launched at Porter Stand in Tokyo.[43]

Raeburn unveiled a new footwear collaboration with Palladium at London Fashion Week: Men's.[44]

Raeburn collaborated with Eastpak to produce a range of backpacks remade from old camouflage jackets.[45]

Raeburn collaborated with the Victoria and Albert Museum to redesign their staff uniform.[46]

2018

Raeburn and Finisterre collaborated on a capsule collection of ready to wear and accessories inspired by oceans.[47]

Raeburn collaborated with CanO Water to design a recyclable water can to replace plastic bottles from London Zoo.[48]

Raeburn worked with Secret Cinema to dress actors for 'Blade Runner - The Final Cut'.[49]

Raeburn and Umbro collaborated on a capsule collection for the FIFA World Cup in Russia.[50]

Raeburn and Timberland unveiled a ready to wear collaboration at London Fashion Week Men's, which deconstructed old Timberland pieces.[51]

2019

Raeburn and The North Face collaborated on a capsule collection of bags remade from North Face tents that can no longer be repaired.[52]

Raeburn and Timberland collaborated for a second year, producing a ready to wear collection including accessories and footwear, using organic and recycled materials.[53]

Raeburn and design agency LAYER collaborated on a furniture project, 'The Canopy Collection'. Launched for London Design Festival in September 2019, the pieces featured recycled ex-military parachute and steel frames.[54]

Raeburn's work appeared in the Design Museum's Moving To Mars exhibition with their New Horizons collection, including repurposed solar blankets and parachutes.[55]

2020

Raeburn collaborated with global fashion marketplace Depop to jointly launch the Depop × RÆBURN Reversible Bucket Hat project.[56]

The Autumn/Winter 2020 collection saw Raeburn collaborate with Icelandic photographer Ragnar Axelsson.[57]

It was announced in September that Raeburn would be collaborating on a product launch with skincare brand Aesop for 2021.[58]

Raeburn took on the task of reviving Left Hand and ST95, brands developed by Stone Island-founder Massimo Osti, both set to relaunch in Autumn 2021.[59]

References
  1. Conlon, Scarlett (5 January 2019). "Success is sustainable for designer turning waste into fashion statement". The Observer. ISSN 0029-7712. Retrieved 25 February 2020.
  2. "Christopher Raeburn: The Revisit – Style Bubble". stylebubble.co.uk. Retrieved 18 September 2018.
  3. "London Fashion Week". londonfashionweek.co.uk. Retrieved 18 September 2018.
  4. Davies, Hywel Davies (2012). 100 New Fashion Designers. Laurence King.
  5. "Common Objective - Do Fashion Better". ethicalfashionforum.com. Retrieved 18 September 2018.
  6. "London Fashion Week" (PDF). londonfashionweek.co.uk. Retrieved 18 September 2018.
  7. Sibley, Fiona (28 April 2009). "Christopher Raeburn: From parachute poncho to catwalk couture". the Guardian. Retrieved 18 September 2018.
  8. "Farfetch - For the Love of Fashion". style.com. Retrieved 18 September 2018.
  9. "Victorinox Swiss Army (USA) - Victorinox Homepage". Victorinox Swiss Army. Retrieved 18 September 2018.
  10. Dazed (11 February 2011). "Victorinox & Christopher Raeburn". dazeddigital.com. Retrieved 18 September 2018.
  12. "British Fashion Awards 2011 nominees revealed - Telegraph". fashion.telegraph.co.uk. Retrieved 18 September 2018.
  13. Dazed (11 February 2011). "Victorinox & Christopher Raeburn". Dazed. Retrieved 7 November 2019.
  14. "Moncler R by Christopher Raeburn Fall/Winter 2012 'Future Heritage' Lookbook | Highsnobiety". Highsnobiety. 7 August 2018. Retrieved 8 August 2018.
  15. Faulkner, Ruth. "Christopher Raeburn unveiled as Victorinox artistic director". Drapers. Retrieved 7 November 2019.
  16. "British Fashion Council - Shortlist 2014". www.britishfashioncouncil.co.uk. Retrieved 14 December 2020.
  17. Bowe, Harriet (24 May 2014). "Matches Wins at UK Fashion & Textile Awards 2014". TheIndustry.fashion. Retrieved 7 November 2019.
  18. "British Fashion Council". www.britishfashioncouncil.co.uk. Retrieved 14 December 2020.
  19. "Breakthrough Designer: Christopher Raeburn". British GQ. Retrieved 14 December 2020.
  20. "V&A · Fashion in Motion: Christopher Raeburn". Victoria and Albert Museum. Retrieved 7 November 2019.
  21. "EXCLUSIVE: Christopher Raeburn For Clarks". British Vogue. Retrieved 7 November 2019.
  22. Theodosi, Natalie (16 May 2016). "MCM Teams With Christopher Raeburn on Unisex Spring 2017 Collection". WWD. Retrieved 7 November 2019.
  23. "Exclusive: Christopher Raeburn On His Move To Timberland". Esquire.com. 25 October 2018. Retrieved 14 January 2020.
  24. "Christopher Raeburn to Relaunch Two Brands Created by Stone Island Founder". The Business of Fashion. 8 December 2020. Retrieved 9 December 2020.
  25. "Menswear designers chosen for NewGen sponsorship at London Fashion Week - Telegraph". fashion.telegraph.co.uk. Retrieved 8 August 2018.
  26. Vogue. "The Big Win". Retrieved 8 August 2018.
  27. "NatWest UK Fashion & Textile Awards 2013 Winners Announced". ukft.org. Archived from the original on 8 August 2018. Retrieved 8 August 2018.
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  29. ok. "Shared Publication". emagcreator.com. Retrieved 24 November 2020.
  30. Moran, Graeme (6 July 2020). "Drapers' celebration of fashion's changemakers". Drapers. Retrieved 24 November 2020.
  31. "All the winners from the Fashion Awards 2020". British GQ. Retrieved 7 December 2020.
  32. "Rapha & Raeburn launch city cycling collection". road.cc. 14 May 2013. Retrieved 8 August 2018.
  33. Karmali, Sarah. "Christopher Raeburn Unveils Festival Project". vogue.co.uk. Retrieved 8 August 2018.
  34. "Fred Perry x Christopher Raeburn Blank Canvas Collection | Highsnobiety". Highsnobiety. 7 August 2018. Retrieved 8 August 2018.
  35. "Christopher Raeburn Teams Up With Oki Ni SS15". Men Magazine. 31 March 2015. Archived from the original on 5 November 2017. Retrieved 1 May 2015.
  36. "Barbour x Raeburn".
  37. "A regular gig: Lavazza's fashion week history". The Telegraph. 19 February 2016. ISSN 0307-1235. Retrieved 24 November 2020.
  38. Milligan, Lauren. "EXCLUSIVE: Christopher Raeburn For Clarks". vogue.co.uk. Retrieved 8 August 2018.
  39. Dazed (13 June 2016). "Christopher Raeburn on reworking MCM's famous backpacks". Dazed. Retrieved 8 August 2018.
  40. Marfil, Lorelei (16 September 2016). "Christopher Raeburn Designs Capsule Range for Disney". WWD. Retrieved 8 August 2018.
  41. "Save the Duck Enlists Christopher Raeburn for a Luxe 2017 Fall/Winter Capsule Collection". HYPEBEAST. Retrieved 9 August 2018.
  42. "Instrmnt collaborates with Christopher Raeburn". Retail Jeweller. Retrieved 8 August 2018.
  43. "Christopher Raeburn & PORTER Connect for a Small Bag Capsule". HYPEBEAST. Retrieved 8 August 2018.
  44. "Christopher Raeburn launches collaboration with Palladium Boots". The Independent. Retrieved 8 August 2018.
  45. "Eastpak & Chistopher Raeburn Use Vintage Camo on New Backpacks". Highsnobiety. 7 August 2018. Retrieved 8 August 2018.
  46. "Christopher Raeburn designs new uniforms for V&A staff". Dezeen. 20 December 2017. Retrieved 8 August 2018.
  47. "Raeburn x Finisterre". Finisterre. Retrieved 8 August 2018.
  48. "Canowater replaces drinking bottles for aluminium containers". Dezeen. 21 March 2018. Retrieved 8 August 2018.
  49. "Explore". christopherraeburn.co.uk. Retrieved 8 August 2018.
  50. "Umbro Launch Christopher Raeburn Collection with Foosball Tournament - SoccerBible". SoccerBible. Retrieved 8 August 2018.
  51. "London Fashion Week Men's: Christopher Raeburn Talks Us Through His Collaboration with Timberland". HYPEBEAST. Retrieved 8 August 2018.
  52. "RÆBURN x The North Face Collection Recycles Pre-Used Tents". HYPEBEAST. Retrieved 29 April 2019.
  53. Roshitsh, Kaley (21 October 2019). "Christopher Raeburn's Latest Timberland Capsule". WWD. Retrieved 7 November 2019.
  54. "Layer and Raeburn design furniture collection from recycled parachutes". Dezeen. 30 September 2019. Retrieved 7 November 2019.
  55. ""Surviving on Mars could teach us how to live more sustainably on earth", says Design Museum's Moving to Mars curator". Dezeen. 17 October 2019. Retrieved 7 November 2019.
  56. "Christopher Raeburn Shows How to Make a Bucket Hat at Home". HYPEBEAST. Retrieved 24 November 2020.
  57. "Apparel design magazine - RÆBURN AW 20 CARCASS". Apparel design magazine. 14 October 2020. Retrieved 24 November 2020.
  58. Weil, Jennifer (24 September 2020). "EXCLUSIVE: Raeburn and Aesop Are Collaborating". WWD. Retrieved 24 November 2020.
  59. "Christopher Raeburn to Relaunch Two Brands Created by Stone Island Founder". The Business of Fashion. 8 December 2020. Retrieved 14 December 2020.
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