1988 Czechoslovak - New Zealand Mount Everest Southwest Face Expedition

Bonington's Hard Way in the central part of the south west face is considered to be one of the hardest Mt. Everest routes. First climbed in 1975 in expedition style and that time said by Chris Bonington to be impossible to be climbed in alpine style.[1]

Southwest face of Mt. Everest

Four Slovak climbers set off in a 1988 expedition to climb the Bonington route in alpine style, without supplementary oxygen and fixed ropes. After three of them reached the South Summit and one of them reached the Mt. Everest Main Summit they all disappeared in the descent.[2][3] The route was never attempted to be climbed in alpine style again.

Events at the basecamp

Four Slovak climbers and their doctor arrived at Everest Base camp at the beginning of September, 1988. At the base camp there were already US and French expeditions who fixed ropes through the Khumbu Ice fall and demanded a 7000 dollars fee from other expeditions to use it.[4] After several negotiations, French climbers allowed the Czechoslovak – New Zealand expedition to use it. The Americans agreed after the promise of material compensations. The South Koreans agreement came after a promise of fixing ropes to the camp four to Lhotse as the Slovaks wanted to summit Lhotse as part of their acclimatisation.[5]

Acclimatization

During the first week at the Everest Base Camp Dušan Becík, Jozef Just and Jaro Jaško established camp one, Dušan Becík and Jozef Just also camp two and camp three. Sherpas carried food and material to the camps. On 28 September Dušan Becík and Jozef Just summited Lhotse as part of the acclimatisation.[6] Peter Božík and Jaroslav Jaško later reached camp four where they spent one night and descended to lower camps.

Plan of expedition

On the first day starting from camp two (6400 m) and climbing the most difficult two hundred meters long stone wall of V – VI UIAA degree at altitude 8100 m. Camping at 8350 m. On the second day traversing snow field to the South summit (8760 m) and reaching the Mt. Everest summit (8848 m). Camping at South Col (8000 m). On the third day descending to the camp two and later to the base camp.

The climb

12th of October

Leaving base camp and reaching camp two (6400 m).[7]

14th of October

Leaving Camp two at 3 AM and starting alpine style climb of Bonington's Hardway. First radio call at 6 PM – climbers built bivouac at 8100 m under the most difficult part of the climb – stone wall of V – VI UIAA degree. They report the ascent to the bivouac was slowed down by the hard icy terrain.[8]

15th of October

Four climbers start climbing the stone wall at 8:30 and two hundred meters long climb takes the whole day and establishes a second bivouac at 8400 m. They report the climb to be more difficult than previously expected and don't report any health issues.[9]

16th of October

First radio call at 11 AM. The group is traversing the snow field to the south summit that can be visually confirmed from the camp two where the is the doctor of the expedition and climber Emil Hasík. Dušan Becík is slightly lagging behind the group and vomiting. The traverse is very slow and climbers are not reaching south summit and need to establish third bivouac at 8600 m in the evening. Climbers during radio call at 9.30 PM don't mention any health issues except exhaustion and Dušan's state is reported to be better.[9]

Southwest Face of Mt. Everest

17th of October

9 AM radio call reports that climbers are leaving the bivouac and heading towards South summit (8760 m). They estimate to reach South Summit at 10 AM at 11 AM also reaching Mt. Everest main summit (8848 m).

1:40 PM radio call between Jozef Just and camp two where he reports reaching the main summit alone. He doesn't know about Peter and Jaro position, if they are descending or ascending, because they separated during the summit attempt. He also reports very strong wind.[10]

2:00 PM radio call between camp two and Jozef Just who is still on the summit of Mt. Everest. He is reporting that Dušan who decided not to attempt to reach the main summit waits for him at the South summit.

3:00 PM radio call from South Summit during which Jozef informs that Dušan is not waiting for him there. He suggests that Peter and Jaro turned around and are descending. His speech and articulation is showing utmost exhaustion. He is complaining about sight problems.[11]

4:00 PM radio call during which Jozef informs he is with Peter and Jaro, but they also have problems with sight and orientation.[6]

5:30 PM radio call. Jozef reports that they are approximately in the halfway from summit to the South Col. Dušan reconnected with their group and can see better than them. He reports Jaro to be letargic and unwilling to continue. He reports they have good orientation in terrain and will make another radio call after reaching the South Col. Group of three American climbers and two sherpas are climbing to the South Col which they say should reach around 5 PM and visually locate the slovak group on the descend and be able to provide help.[12]

No further calls between camp two and four Slovak climbers is established. Jozef Just who was communicating through radio doesn't respond. Diana Dailey, Dave Hambly, Donald Goodman reach the South Col and in spite of strong wind the visibility is good. They cannot see anybody descending from the South Summit. They continue to visually monitor the terrain until the late night when strong wind changes into the 120 – 160 km/h hurricane.[13]

18th of October

10 AM radio call. American climbers report that nobody reached their camp at South Col and nobody can be seen seen on the descending way up to 8500 m. After check up of all remaining tents at South Col American climbers descend to camp three where they cannot find anyone neither.[14]

Ivan Fiala, leader of the expedition calls for forming of group of strongest sherpas who would reach the South Col and attempt to look for Slovak climbers. He offers 25th multiple of daily wage, but the storm considered to be too dangerous.

Expedition members

Peter Božík

Climber, born 6th of April 1954 in Branov, died 17th of October 1988 on Mt. Everest. Member (academic assistant) of Faculty of architecture in Bratislava. Married, one daughter.

1982 – First ascent of Pik Korzenevske's west face

1984 – First ascent of Lhotse Shar's south face

1985 – First winter ascent of Sondre Trolltind's north face

1986 – Ascent of K2's Magic line

1988 – First ascent of Sondre Trolltind's northeast face

Dušan Becík

Climber, born 6th of June 1954 in Bratislava, died 17th of October 1988 on Mt. Everest. High-altitude specialist v JZD Radošinka in Velké Řipnany. Married, two sons.

1977 – First ascent of Obergabelhorn

1978 – First winter ascent of polish way of Pointé Héléne in the north face of Grandes Jorasses

1982 – First ascent of Rondoy's unclimbed west face

1984 – First winter ascent of Pic Sans Nom's north face

1985 – First winter ascent of Sondre Trolltind's north face

1985 – Alpine style winter ascent of Cho Oju

1986 – First ascent of Mt. Foraker northeast face

1988 – Alpine style ascent of Lhotse

Jaroslav Jaško

Climber, born 20th of December 1961 in Poprad, died 17th of October 1988 on Mt. Everest. Worker Robotník in TJ James. Single.

1983 – First ascent of Usba's north east face

1984 – First ascent of Mont Blanc's south east face direttissima Grand Pilier d'Angle

1985 – Ascent of Pik of Communism

1985 – First winter ascent of Romsdalhorn's north face

1986 – First ascent of Mt. Foraker northeast face

1988 – First winter ascent of Sondre Troltind's north face bivouac blues

Jozef Just

Climber, born 31st of January 1955 in Bratislava, died 17th of October 1988 on Mt. Everest. Medotik in TJ James. Married, one daughter, one son.

1974 – First Czechoslovak ascent of Aiguille de Fou's south face

1980 – Ascent of Pik of Communism

1981? - First ascent of Nanga Parbat North Summit through unclimbed west (diamir) face

1986 – Ascent of Pik of Lenin

1986 – First free climb ascent of Norwegian way in Trollrygen's north face

1988 – Alpine style ascent of Lhotse

Other members

Ivan Fiala – head of the expedition

Jaroslav Oršula – deputy head of the expedition

Milan Skladaný – doctor of the expedition

Expedition Bonington's Hard Way alpine style was originally Czechoslovak – New Zealand expedition. New Zealand's members of the expedition at the end abandoned the attempt at the Everest base camp. New Zealand's members: Robert Hall, Bill Atkinson, Gary Ball, Lydia Bradley. Lydia Bradley than attempted to summit Mt. Everest via the classic route and became the first woman to summit Mt. Everest without supplementary oxygen.

References
  1. 1959-, Vranka, Milan (2016). Ztraceni na Everestu : příběh jednoho velkého zapomenutého prvenství. Kašpárková Koišová, Katarína. (Vydání první ed.). V Brně. ISBN 9788074629754. OCLC 960190433.CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link) Page 7
  2. "Nepal 1988" (PDF). Alpine Journal. Retrieved 3 December 2020. pages 4-5
  3. "Two Czechs Die In Himalayas, Six Other Climbers Missing". AP NEWS.
  4. Vranka, Milan (2016). Ztraceni na Everestu. Český Těšín: Nakladatelství JOTA. p. 37. ISBN 978-80-7462-975-4.
  5. Vranka, Milan (2016). Ztraceni na Everestu. Český Těšín: Nakladatelství JOTA. p. 43. ISBN 978-80-7462-975-4.
  6. 1959-, Vranka, Milan (2016). Ztraceni na Everestu : příběh jednoho velkého zapomenutého prvenství. Kašpárková Koišová, Katarína. (Vydání první ed.). V Brně. ISBN 9788074629754. OCLC 960190433.CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link) Page 60
  7. 1959-, Vranka, Milan (2016). Ztraceni na Everestu : příběh jednoho velkého zapomenutého prvenství. Kašpárková Koišová, Katarína. (Vydání první ed.). V Brně. ISBN 9788074629754. OCLC 960190433.CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link) Page 81
  8. 1959-, Vranka, Milan (2016). Ztraceni na Everestu : příběh jednoho velkého zapomenutého prvenství. Kašpárková Koišová, Katarína. (Vydání první ed.). V Brně. ISBN 9788074629754. OCLC 960190433.CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link) Page 82
  9. 1959-, Vranka, Milan (2016). Ztraceni na Everestu : příběh jednoho velkého zapomenutého prvenství. Kašpárková Koišová, Katarína. (Vydání první ed.). V Brně. ISBN 9788074629754. OCLC 960190433.CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link) Page 83
  10. 1959-, Vranka, Milan (2016). Ztraceni na Everestu : příběh jednoho velkého zapomenutého prvenství. Kašpárková Koišová, Katarína. (Vydání první ed.). V Brně. ISBN 9788074629754. OCLC 960190433.CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link) Page 84
  11. 1959-, Vranka, Milan (2016). Ztraceni na Everestu : příběh jednoho velkého zapomenutého prvenství. Kašpárková Koišová, Katarína. (Vydání první ed.). V Brně. ISBN 9788074629754. OCLC 960190433.CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link) Page 85
  12. 1959-, Vranka, Milan (2016). Ztraceni na Everestu : příběh jednoho velkého zapomenutého prvenství. Kašpárková Koišová, Katarína. (Vydání první ed.). V Brně. ISBN 9788074629754. OCLC 960190433.CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link) Page 89
  13. 1959-, Vranka, Milan (2016). Ztraceni na Everestu : příběh jednoho velkého zapomenutého prvenství. Kašpárková Koišová, Katarína. (Vydání první ed.). V Brně. ISBN 9788074629754. OCLC 960190433.CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link) Page 90
  14. 1959-, Vranka, Milan (2016). Ztraceni na Everestu : příběh jednoho velkého zapomenutého prvenství. Kašpárková Koišová, Katarína. (Vydání první ed.). V Brně. ISBN 9788074629754. OCLC 960190433.CS1 maint: numeric names: authors list (link) Page 91
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